mk carroll

Suh-Wif-Fur Loopy Dust Mop Cloth (Free Crochet Recipe)

Over the weekend, I crocheted a basic reusable cloth to use with a certain trademarked floor sweeper meant to be used with name-brand disposable cloths. I improvised, but there are free crochet patterns for that (Tonya Hume's Swiffer Cover, Tiff Crochets Swiffer Cardi, and Gherkin's Bucket Crochet Biffer Shrug, for starters). I used the basic cloth, and it worked fine, but I found myself wanting a loopy, dust mop type of cloth to do things like clean the ceiling fan blades, so after a couple of pointlessly difficult tries at making one out of loop st squares, I finished this one - made flat in one piece, with pockets at the side to slip over the head of the sweeper.

UPDATE 3 July 2008: Turns out I have an older, smaller model, and many people have the newer, larger model. Larger size is now included in the recipe.

Yarn: 1 ball Lily Sugar n' Cream kitchen cotton (70.9g/120 yds 100% cotton) [AUS/NZ: 10-ply cotton]
Yarn Substitutes: Pisgah Peaches & Creme kitchen cotton, Lion Brand Lion Cotton, Kitchen Cotton, Cotton-Ease, Nature's Choice Organic Cotton, Blue Sky Alpacas Organic Cotton, Dyed Cotton, Pakucho Organic Cotton, or any other worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn of your choice. You could also use wool - it attract dust nicely!
Crochet hook: I/9/5.5mm or size to get gauge
Knitting needle: US13/9mm/UK00 dpn [OPTIONAL] - to make loops over (can use finger, pen, dowel, etc.)
Crochet Me loop stitch tutorial by Chloe Nightingale
Measurements: SMALLER (older models) 3"/7.5cm wide, 9.5"/19cm long, LARGER (newer models) 4.5"/11.5cm wide, 10"/25.5cm long. Will fit on a Swiffer (tm) sweeper - but the sizes can vary, so check the measurements of the sweeper you are using and adjust pattern as needed to fit.
Gauge/Tension: in sc, 16 sts/16 rows = 4"/10cm. In loop stitch, 16 sts/10 rows = 4"/10cm

The hook size will seem large for the yarn, but the loop stitch can get very tight, making it harder to crochet and resulting in a firmer fabric than necessary. Crocheted flat in one piece, with single crochet flaps sewn down along the sides so that the dust mop can be slipped on and off the sweeper head.

This pattern may be used by individuals to make and sell finished items (for example, at craft fairs, on Etsy, as charity fundraiser items). Please give credit where credit is due.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet [AUS/NZ/UK: replace with dc = double crochet]
st = stitch
lp st = loop stitch

Instructions for sizes given as SMALLER(LARGER)

To make evenly sized loops, I worked the loops over a double-pointed knitting needle. I work the entire row and then slide the knitting needle out of the loops.

Begin with first flap:
ch 13 (20)
1) sc 12 (19)
2) ch 1, sc 12 (19)
repeat row 2 until piece measures 2"/5cm long (7 rows)
[for LARGER size, you may want to make the flaps a little longer]

turning row:
sc 12 (19) in front loops only

looped surface:
1) lp st 12 (19)
2) sc 12 (19)
repeat rows 1 and 2 until loop st section measures 9.5"/19cm(10"/25.5cm) long.

turning row:
sc 12 (19) in front loops only

second flap:
1) ch 1, sc 12 (19)
repeat until second flap measures 2"/5cm long. Fasten off.
[for LARGER size, you may want to make the flaps a little longer]

Assemble: Fold flaps to back (smooth side) and sew the sides down, leaving top of flap open. Weave in all ends. I don't think this needs blocking, but if that would make you happy, wash with mild soap and wet-block to size.

Top-Down Ribbed Beanie: handspun (Sweet Flesh)

Currently listed in my Etsy shop: Handspun Hat, $35
Yarn: Jenny Neutron Star, handspun wool plied with metallic gold, "Sweet Flesh"

You can see the metallic gold rick-rack plied with the wool in this picture.

Handspun Hat: done!

Top-Down Ribbed Beanie Recipe
US 11 and 10 needles
Jenny Neutron Star handspun, "Candy", about 80 yards

This time it's really finished - I ripped back a few rounds, then switched to US 10 needles and did 2 rounds of stockinette and bound it off. I like it better now, although I do feel like the hat is asking for more. Some buttons, maybe? A few crochet circles? I may have to just set it aside and walk away. It's already quite exuberant.

About the yarn - the jennyneutronstar.com site won't load for me, and the Jenny Neutron Star Etsy shop hasn't had any activity for over a year. Back when I first got this yarn, quirky handspun yarn wasn't as readily available. When I was asked to put together a few kits for the Alt Fiber show, I didn't have much time and I really wanted to feature indie crafters. Jenny Neutron Star really came through for me and custom-spun 3 skeins to order (although I botched the wpi - this is really more like 5-6 wpi yarn, and it's my misstatement, not hers). 2 years later, nifty handspun/handdyed yarns are thriving on Etsy, and so while I can't find a way to direct you to Jenny Neutron Star right now, I do have a couple of Etsy favorite sellers for bulky thick/thin yarns: Terra Bella Spun does handspun/handdyed, which I've used to knit up similar hats. Miss Hawklet has some "scraptacular" yarns up right now that I find especially delightful, and I used some Midnight & Lulu yarn in the Springtime Scarflette I did last year. Typing "handspun yarn" into the Etsy search feature will get you pages and pages of delightful stuff! I know I have to be careful when I do that. For the next few days, my Etsy favorites (up on the top right corner of this blog) will be featuring lovely handspun yarns. I may have to go sit in my stash for a little while to keep me from buying more.

Top-Down Ribbed Beanie: handspun (done?)

Yarn: Jenny Neutron Star handspun, "Candy"
Pattern: Top-Down Ribbed Beanie Recipe
Needles: US 11

I was worried about running out of yarn, and used up almost every inch of it. Now I think it's too long, which is easy to do when working at a chunky gauge like this. I think I'm going to undo the bind-off and re-knit the hem on smaller needles (I did 3 rounds of reverse stockinette - I think 2 would be better).

One of the nice things about having an Etsy shop is that I don't have to think about whether I would wear this (or when). I love the colors and the textures but it's just a bit much. [Ms. M, I can hear you gleefully cackling at that one - you remember what my hair used to look like, after all.]

Top-Down Ribbed Beanie: handspun

Yarn: handspun by Jenny Neutron Star, merino wool with random pieces of cotton, alpaca, silk, and tencel.
Pattern: Top-Down Ribbed Beanie Recipe
Needles: US 11

Basic Crochet Beanie (Baby)

My basic crochet beanie starts with making a flat circle until the diameter x 3 = head circumference (or slightly smaller if you want a snug fit). Reading through the instructions, you can see that the increases for the crown form a pattern of one more stitch between increases. You can continue working increase rounds until the diameter is the right size for what you want to make, then stop working increases and just work evenly around until the sides are as long as you want them to be. For single crochet, start with 6 sts in the ring, and for double crochet, start with 12 sts in the ring (you may also want to chain 6 instead of 4).

Basic Crochet Beanie (Baby)
Size: 15"/38cm circumference, about 5"/13cm deep [I have to double-check these measurements]
Yarn: Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton, color A (Sky Blue), about 60 yards [worsted weight]
         Blue Sky Alpacas Organic Cotton, color B (Sand), about 15 yards
Hook: US G/4.0mm

If you are working in a spiral, mark the beginning of each round with a removable stitch marker. The hat shown in the photos was worked in a spiral - you can see that the stripes don't meet up at the back.
If you are working in concentric rings, at the end of each round, join the last stitch to the first stitch with a slip stitch, and begin each round with ch 2.

With color A, chain 4 and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
Round 1) 8 hdc into ring (8 sts)
Round 2) 2 hdc in ea st (16 sts)
Round 3) 2 hdc in first st, *hdc in next st, 2 hdc in following st* (24 sts)
Round 4) 2 hdc in first st, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in following st (32 sts)
Round 5) 2 hdc in first st, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in following st (40 sts)
change to color B
Round 6) 2 hdc in first st, *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in following st (48 sts)
change to color A
Round 7) 2 hdc in first st, *hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in following st (56 sts)
Round 8) 2 hdc in first st, *hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in following st (64 sts)
Round 9-11) hdc in ea st (64 sts)
change to color B
Round 12) hdc in ea st (64 sts)
change to color A
Rounds 13 - 17) hdc in ea st (64 sts)
change to color B
Round 18) hdc in ea st (64 sts)
join first and last stitch of final round with a slip st. Cut yarn. Tail end of yarn from beginning can be threaded through first round of stitches and pulled tight. Weave in all ends.

 

Free Amigurumi Patterns

I keep getting hits from people searching for free amigurumi patterns.  They get directed to my Japanese Craft Books post, which does not include the free patterns those searchers are looking for.  So here you go!  This post will be updated periodically with more patterns!

CROCHET
Sprite, by Even Howard, was published by Crochet Me magazine. 
Fairy Tales at Your Fingertips finger puppets, by Melissa Mall, Crochet Me August/September 2005
Autumn's Apple finger puppet by Kat Marie Williams, Crochet Me Oct/Nov 2005
Cheeky the Octopus by Melinda Fisher, Crochet Me Oct/Nov 2005.  Melinda also sells some of her crocheted toys through her mintimindi Etsy shop. 
Crocheted stegosaurus pattern by Knittykat, available as a .pdf download for free, with a request to make a donation to a specific charity. 
Moldy Cupcake from Gleeful Things (more patterns are available for sale). 

The Amigurumi-Along has links to free and not-free patterns and loads of photos of all kinds of amigurumi.  A frequent poster there is Roxycraft - her site has free patterns (but not amigurumi patterns).  She sells her amigurumi patterns as PDF downloads, and also sells the finished amigurumi.  Her patterns are super-duper cute and well worth the money!  You can also check out Etsy shops for finished amigurumi as well as patterns by indie crafters.

Craftster.org has free patterns and links to free patterns in the forums, like the penguin by tamar, and the panda and pig by mmmfruit.  A search for "amigurumi" in the forums will result in several pages of hits.

Crochet me has an Amigurumi Special Issue!  Includes patterns, tutorials, and how to make your own variations on a basic pattern.
Designer Ana Paula Rimoli has a blog just for her free patterns: Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns:   
Little Cookie
Little Bunny Rabbit
Pablito the Penguin
Cat & Mouse
Zequi the Bear
Cupcake
Little Fried Egg
Ana Paula Rimoli also sells patterns and finished amigurumi through her Etsy shop, www.anapaulaoli.etsy.com.  I've purchased a few of her patterns and they are well-written and easy to follow!

There's a new free online knit and crochet magazine, For the Love of Yarn.  The premiere issue has crochet amigurumi patterns for a turtle and a snail.

KNIT
Don't crochet?  There are several free knitting patterns for cute stuffies and toys! 

[UPDATE 2009: MagKnits shut down in April 2008; many of the patterns published have been made available by the designers in various locations. I have updated the MagKnits patterns listed below with new links; a couple of them go to Ravelry.com pages and you will need to be a Ravelry member - sorry about that, but the designers chose to host the patterns on Ravelry, and Ravelry memberships are free.]

Gattino, a kitten stuffie (Knitty Fall '02)
Finger Puppers (Knitty Summer '03) 
Pasha the Penguin (Knitty Winter '04)
Bubby the Bear (Knitty Fall '05)

Pumpkins (Knitty Fall '05)
Garden Variety veggie toys (MagKnits Sept. '05) [link to Ravelry.com page]
Pocket Creatures (Knitty Winter '05)
Kate, the cat with britches (Knitty Winter '05)
Sushi (MagKnits Feb. '06) [link to Ravelry.com page]
Noblin Breakfast Bunny (MagKnits April '06) [link to designer's page]
Laura Jane Bears (MagKnits May '06) [pattern currently unavailable]
Norberta the Dragon (Knitty Winter '06)
Nautie the Nautilus (Knitty Spring '06)
Sheldon the Turtle (Knitty Winter '06)
Dad's Blueberry Pie (MagKnits Nov. '06) [link to designer's page]
Woodins (Knitty Fall '07) - little woodland creatures and their log home.

The Crochet and Knitting Diva has list of free patterns and amigurumi blogs, some of which are also listed in this post.

Heather Knits: Knit Pullip/Blythe Beanie Wig Mod

August 2007: Heather of Heather Knits modified the knit Pullip/Blythe Beanie pattern to make a doll wig!  She used the Locked Loop Rerooting Tutorial from Puchi Collective, but using the hat instead of a rubber scalp.  You could also use the Simple Crochet Beanie doll hat pattern too, and even use a lighter weight yarn (like fingering) by using the same rate of increasing but working until the circle is large enough for the doll's head, then working even to the length you want.  Isn't this a great modification?  Imagine the yarn/felt dreadlock possibilities!

Photos by Heather Wolff.

Wig as modeled by Heather's Pullip doll

inside of the wig

Mug and French Press Jacket

A French press is also called a cafetiere, press pot, coffee press, or coffee plunger.  More information in this Wikipedia entry. 

Mug & French Press Jacket

Size:  to fit a mug or French press with 3.5" diameter base; pattern can be adjusted to fit different sizes.
Materials:
Yarn: 1 skein Elann Peruvian Highland Wool (worsted weight 100% Peruvian wool, 109 yds/50g).  You may need more than one skein, depending on how high you want the sides to be.
Yarn subs: A smooth worsted weight yarn with good stitch definition and a little bounce; suggested subs include Cascade 220, Cascade Sierra, Plymouth Encore worsted, Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted, Southwest Trading Co. Karaoke.
Needles: US 6 (or size to get gauge), 1 set dpns or two circs [dpns or 2 circs for base, 1 circ for sides (sides are worked flat but with built-in base, the flexibility of a circ is important)]
Gauge: 24 sts/32 rows = 4"/10cm
Notions: buttons (1 for mug, 2 for French press), tapestry needle

Basic concept:
Knit a circle from the center out large enough for base (80 sts).  Work sides for 1” or up to base of handle.  BO 2” or enough for width of handle.  Work in desired pattern (e.g. smocked cables) for about 3” or desired height.  BO all sts.  Make a loop closure and sew to one open side, sew button to opposite side (two for the French press)
Variations: replace smocked pattern with plain ribbing, replace smocked pattern with stranded colorwork and bands of ribbing or moss st at top and bottom.

ABBREVIATIONS:
k = knit
beg = begin
inc = increase
kfb = knit front and back (increase)
p = purl
sl = slip (in this pattern, slip stitch as it is presented: that is, slip knit sts knitwise, purl sts purlwise)
st = stitch
sts = stitches

STITCH PATTERN

Smocking (from Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns)
Multiple of 8 sts + 2
Rows 1 and 3 (wrong side): k2, *p2, k2*
Row 2: p2, *k2, p2*
Row 4: p2, *insert right-hand needle from front between 6th and 7th sts on left-hand needle and draw through a loop; sl this loop onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the 1st st on left hand needle; k1, p2, k2, p2*
Rows 5 and 7: Repeat rows 1 and 3
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 8: p2, k2, p2, *draw loop from between 6th and 7th sts as before and knit it together with 1st st, then k1, p2, k2, p2*, end k2, p2
Repeat rows 1 - 8

(click on the image for a full size 6" x 2.5" version of the chart - will appear in a pop-up window)

BASE
kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
inc 1 = increase one = for this pattern, I prefer k1 into row below
With dpns or 2 circs, CO 8 sts.
Round 1: *kfb* (16 sts)
Round 2: *k2, inc 1* (24 sts)
Round 3: *inc 1, k3* (32 sts)
Round 4: *k4, inc 1* (40 sts)
Round 5: *inc 1, k5* (48 sts)
Round 6: *k6, inc 1* (56 sts)
Round 7: *inc 1, k7* (64 sts)
Round 8: *k8, inc 1* (72 sts)
Round 9: *inc 1, k9* (80 sts)
Round 10: p all sts (80 sts)

SIDES
Round 1 - 7: *k2, p2* (80 sts)
In the next round, switch from dpns or 2 circs to 1 circ
Round 8:  BO 6 sts, sl1, p1, begin smocking pattern, end p2
Next 24 or so rows : work smocking pattern.  On RS rows, replace first two sts of smocking pattern with sl1(purlwise), p1, and end the row with p2.  On WS rows, replace first two sts of smocking pattern with  sl1(knitwise), k1, and end the row with k2.
Note: work last smocked row when sides are 1" shorter than desired, then work last 8 rows in 2x2 rib.  The mug used 2.5 repeats of the smocking pattern; the French press will probably use about 4.5 repeats.
BO all sts in pattern

LOOP: (for French press, make 2)
With dpns, CO 3 sts
Rows 1 - 28: work i-cord
BO

FINISHING
Exact placement and position of loop and button will vary depending on the design of the mug/French press.

Slip jacket onto mug or French press.  Pin ends of loop to one of the open sides and determine placement for button on opposite open side (French press will likely need two loops and buttons).   Slip jacket off and sew loop and button into place.  Weave in all ends.  To block, wash gently and then slip onto mug or French press to dry, turning mug or french press upside down.  If you are using a French press with metal components, you may wish to wrap it in a plastic bag or plastic wrap first to keep the metal dry.

A photo tutorial for Row 4 of the Smocking Stitch pattern is available on my Flickr page. 

[updated May 07, 2008]
A revised and nicely formatted PDF with instructions for knitting from the top of the sides down, as well as a chart done in Knit Visualizer, is available for $5.50 (you will need a PayPal account or a credit card). $4.50 of the purchase price will be donated to Knitters Without Borders.

Ravelry Store:

The free PDF download (instructions the same as in this post - starts from the center of the base and goes up) is still available.

[this button says "buy now" but the price is set to $0.00 - some users are not able to use the "add to cart" and "view cart" buttons successfully]

In the comments for August 01, 2007, KC asked:

Hi. Just wondering how you would adjust this pattern to fit a cup (say starbucks or the like). Perhaps in the round? This is a great pattern! I would love to use this instead of the cardboard sleeves they give you. Thanks.

KC, if you measure the cup you want to cozy, you can use a stitch count that is a multiple of 8 (if you are doing this in the round), or, if you want to knit it flat, a stitch count that is a multiple of 8, +2 (e.g. 18, 34, or 42). The ribbing and smocking are stretchy, so I'd guess that if you measured the narrow part of the cup and the wide part of the cup, then got an average of the two and figured out your gauge (stitches per inch) off that, you'd be able to knit a sleeve that would fit most of the cup. If you want the cozy to have a base, knit the base of the cozy to fit the base of the cup. Using the pattern, you'll have a multiple of 8 sts in each round of the base, so you could just start working the smocking stitch pattern after the base is completed. It might not stretch quite enough to fit around as you go up the cup, though - with some graph paper and a pencil, you could work out where to place increases and adjust the stitch pattern.

Or, if you crochet, you could try out my Crochet 16 oz. Coffee Cup Cozy pattern (check the left sidebar under "Free Patterns"). Hope that helps!

In the comments for August 10, Lizzie asked:
"When the smocking pattern begins, row 1 of the stitch pattern says "wrong side." Does this mean that we should turn the work so we're stitching the wrong side?

And then you write "work smocking pattern beg s1, p1, ending p2."  Does this mean that the "sl1, p1" replaces the "p2" of the stitch pattern?  Or do we "sl1, p1" and then use the stitches in the pattern?"

Lizzie, you've got it! 

1) In this case, "wrong side" means the side that will be on the inside of the jacket, pressed against the mug.  The base is worked in the round, but the sides are knit flat.  I included the "wrong side" note, which is in the original stitch pattern instructions, partly because I did a chart of the stitch and it's important to know what the right side/wrong side (public side/private side) of the stitch pattern is so that the knitter knows if they read that row from left to right or from right to left.

2) Yes, "sl 1, p1" replaces the "p2" of the stitch pattern.  Slipping the first stitch of each row results in a smooth edge, so you don't have to go back and do any finishing work (like a hem or crocheted edging).  I should have noted that you will slip that first stitch purlwise (that is, you insert the needle as if to purl, with the yarn held in front).  I'll add that in to the pattern now.

Mug and French Press Jacket by MK Carroll is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 License.

How to Impress the Muggles (Crochet 16 oz. Coffee Cup Cozy)

unidentified scrap wool (pink)
Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton (poppy orange)

Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton, expresso, lemonade, sky, honeydew

For a 16 oz. takeout cup:
With worsted weight yarn and a G hook, chain 30.  Join into a ring and hdc into each chain.  Increase 2 sts every other round (e.g. inc 1, hdc 12, inc 1, hdc rem), checking the fit every once in a while, working a plain round to tighten it up if necessary. I like a cozy about 6 rounds high.  Stretchy yarns like wool need fewer increase rounds - increasing 2 sts every third round might do the trick.  If you want it to fit lower, start with a shorter foundation chain.

I gave one as a small thank-you gift to a barista who makes me awesome iced decaf soy dirty chai lattes (chai latte with a shot of espresso).  Barista delighted, shows to a bunch of our co-workers, co-workers make many comments on it.  I need to remember not to downplay my skills - sure, it's something I just whipped up with scrap yarn and an empty takeout cup...but I don't have to say that.  I can just smile and say thank you.

I don't have pics of the first one, because I didn't think to take any.  I crocheted these two cozies last night, and I have a new (to me) camera to play with.  I can get in much closer with this newer camera and I'm liking it a lot (a Sony Cybershot DSC-P41). 

Crochet Coffee Cup Cozy by MK Carroll is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 License.